Here's a project I've been working on for quite some time. It doesn't have it's functions as guitar. Although all materials are identical of such as a real one. It's the size of a ukelele.

The body: Three solid compressed wood panels attached with glue to eachother. Out of a square wooden body, i started to saw out it's shape by using an electrical jig saw. The figure colored blue is entirely cut out by using hand tools. This made the yellow, white and red figures come out three-dimensional. Also the White colored surrounding is three-dimensional. After taking measurements for the neck I cut out the fit for the neck in the body. As final shaping before painting I took a woodcrafting file and some sandingpaper to give the body round edges. The body was painted after it was fully shaped.

The neck: The neck was made of two bars of the same type of wood used for the body, also, glued together. I cut off a part of the lower bar to make it fit the guitar body, like they do on real guitars. Then, a tricky part of expertise: the fretwires. I first had to make sure that the measurements were correct before carving them in, using the fret distance of an acoustic ukelele. I wasn't in the posession of real fretwire which they use on guitars, so i used thick copper wire which, remarkebly, had the same thickness of the real fret wire. There are multiple sizes fretwire. I don't know which one of the fretwires is identical to the copper wire I used. After carving out the fret positions i measured the lenght of each fret(horizontal on the picture) because the bottom fret is way wider than the top fret, cut the copper wire and glued them with polyurethane glue.(That is glue wich expands itselfs. Yes, it glues copper to wood.) I then took a real fine file to rounden the edges a bit, because the cutting of the wires gave them a nasty, ugly sharp end. I then used woodcutting tools to remove excess glue which popped out suring the expand. There is one important basic lesson wich every woodcrafter should know, is to clamp the materials together during the hardeningprocess of the glue. I took some trash wood and placed it atop of the neck so it would hold down the fretwires while the glue could expand. After the removal of the excess glue, i mixed a metallic gray paint and painted the sides and bottom of the neck. I used black nail polish to color the fretboard. I added a sort of inlays, which aren't inlays, but painted dots as fretmarkers. For that I used dark red nail polish, just for the looks.

Now there is one VERY important addition which isn't visible on the guitar, is that there are four 5mm pins, two at the bottom, two at the top of the neck, which are glued into the neck's predrilled holes. If these pins weren't there, the guitar had a chance to break or loose it's shape. The top of the pins were inserted a bit downwards for the head to have it's angle.

The head: The same material used for the head as for the neck. Two short bars of these, glued together and cut to shape. I drilled four holes in the head and added boltfittings into these holes. I used wingnutbolts and a nut on the top side to clamp the string, able to actually tune the guitar. To prevent the bolt from turning back, I used nuts at the bottom side of the bolts. The bolt penetrates the entire head to make the tuning possible.
After that I drilled holes in the head, which was tricky aswell: the bolts were blocking the way to i had to cut half one of the pins used in the neck to make it fit the head. Giving it a red pinstripe along the edge on the steel-grey paint gives it just another detail.

If you watch closely you'll notice a small ridge between the head and the neck, that one was made out of trespa, which is a black, very, very solid manufactured wood. But also very heavy, making it useful only for the smaller details. It has a low chance to break, that's why i chose the material. Adding four screws to guide the strings was a tough challange. such small pieces of wood can split easily. So predrill was a must. Then two holes were drilled so it would fit the pins between the head and the neck.

The strings: Well, how I got these... Read the comment. I dind't want to spend money on a whole new set of strings. And I was out of strings. I used four strings, the D, G, B, and e.(For those who don't know the tunes, it are the four thinest strings.)

Attaching the strings to the head wasnt a problem, that was all fixed by those bolts. But from the body was quite problematic. Although it should be easy to just drill four holes in there and stick the strings right through, i wanted to look special, rather acoustic. So I took some trespa, which i used on the ridge, and cut out two pieces. One large and one thin part. I used a thin woodworking file to remove some of the trespa to make room for the strings to go underneath and through the two parts, creating a loop with the strings, like on most real acoustic guitars. I drilled two holes at the sides of the trespa to screw the two components to eachother and another two holes to screw the component to the body.

The strings were looped through the body's holdingcomponent and attached to the bolts at the head, making all the measurements come down to this final moment. Will it be symmetrical? Will the strings run along the neck at the same lenght, distance from eachother and height from the body? Will the bolts hold? All to be answered YES! It turned out even tuneable. The frets worked like a charm. Although it doesn't have a resonance box, it does emit sound and tunes.

As a final touch i used some polyester to shape the fittings between the body and the neck and between the head and the neck. Painted the polyester parts. Just to make it more awesome.